Epic Kyrgyzstan

How to describe the past week or two on our journey as we have travelled across Kyrgyzstan?  Epic would perhaps be the most accurate, but unseasonably cold would also be another!  But first let’s go back to our last couple of days in China, spent in Kashgar after a long couple of days crossing more desert to get there.

Kashgar is a reminder of how big and diverse China is. Situated in the west of the country, close to the borders of Pakistan, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, it was a key spot on the Silk Road.  It definitely has a different feel about it from other parts of China we have visited. Different foods – no pork, rather an abundance of lamb kebabs and decorated flat breads more characteristic of Central Asian and Middle Eastern countries. Also yoghurt, camel milk ice-cream, and the closest we’ve come to meat pies.

Lamb Shashlyk

We arrived in time for the weekly livestock market that takes place just outside of Kashgar.  Camels, donkeys, horses, sheep, cows, yaks, they were all there being offloaded from the back of trucks or small mini-pickups. It was a wonderful market to witness – prospective buyers sizing up animal, hands being shaken and money handed over. Also a great place for taking photos as the local farmers seemed unperturbed by tourists with cameras.

Loading livestock

Traditional fat-tailed sheep

Our next stop was the Kashgar Sunday Market, which is actually now open daily, but still busiest on Sundays. The journey between the 2 markets was interesting for some – we opted for a ride in one of those miniature pickups – 8 of us in the back and Andrew P sharing a seat with the driver in the front – where we got a tour of the backroads of the more rural areas. The Sunday market itself had anything and everything for sale – if you get to the right part of it. Hardware, clothes, plastics, carpets, ceramics; I’m sure you could hunt down most things there.

Overloaded?

Some of the group also persuaded Sophie (our local guide) to take them to a local club. A different experience I believe – drinks and snacks all ordered on arrival, as opposed to the bars that we’re familiar with where you buy your drinks when you need them/finish yours. Some dancing went down too – rumour has it Andrew E was popular on the dance floor!

Cheers

After 23 fascinating days it was time to leave China, the group ready for the next phase heading into the ‘Stans. But first we needed permission to leave China! The border post over the Torugart Pass had been closed for some days over the National holidays so it was expected to be pretty busy. Luckily for us it was more busy for trucks coming in the other direction, so apart from the usual waiting around, we were able to get through quite quickly, although it is all relative as this is one of the longest border crossings on our journey.    It is a very formal affair (we even needed to get permission just to pee!) with plenty of paperwork for the crew to complete, queues to stand in and, depending on how the border guards are feeling, inspections to be done. And unfortunately no photos of the spectacular scenery on the 50-odd-km stretch of land between to the 2 Chinese checkpoints (although Sophie relented halfway through and allowed us a toilet stop (even though we weren’t Chinese – no jokes!) and a photo opp). After all the formality of the earlier Chinese checkpoints, once we reached the final checkpoint at the Kyrgyzstan border, it was a sudden exit and goodbye to Sophie at a fence and gate, with no one there other than a Chinese official, and Said (our guide for Kyrgyzstan) waving at us from the other side.

Glad we aren't in that queue!

Stunning scenery in no man's land

Into Kyrgyzstan and what a change. A much more relaxed country than China, no longer did we need to ask for permission to pee, or permission to have lunch on the side of the road! It was a long day, and we were all very pleased to arrive at our homestay in Naryn, and what a treat awaited us! Hot water, cozy rooms, and a delicious and beautifully presented meal by our hostess. The table was adorned with fruit and sweets and nuts and dates and dried apricots. The tea was flowing, we were waited on hand and foot. Breakfast was no less of a feast. Pancakes, real cheese, yoghurt, homemade jam. I don’t think I was the only one who was in heaven and didn’t want to leave!

But it was time for a bit of exploring and adventuring, so after restocking and refuelling in Naryn we headed up towards Lake Song Kul. There had been heavy snow a week previously which had come earlier than expected, and it was only just beginning to melt as we winded our way up to 3,500m. Still icy, and a fair bit of snow on the dirt tracks, Simon, Said and Paul set about putting on the snow chains for the last bit of our ascent, with support from Mignon, Teresa and Al who did some ‘gardening’ in the meantime, shovelling pebbles onto the road with the trowels. I hear the Chinese are looking to give them a contract for their next road project ;)

Song Kul was beautiful, icy and deserted. Or so we thought until we met the 3 French cyclists and the Swiss couple driving through. But unfortunately the nomads had moved on, heading down from the high altitude lake with the early arrival of the first snow. The hills behind our camp we great for an amble, and Ann S, Jacq and Nigel H have photographic evidence of reaching the lake – which is much further than it looks!

It's further than it looks...

Success!  Nigel H on the lake shore

Andrew E and Nigel C

Frost on the inside and outside of the tents, hand- and dishwashing water freezing minutes after they have been poured, it really was cold. The solution: mulled wine and lots of food! A delicious tagine, flambe’ed duck, soups, toasted sandwiches, and home-baked scones (in the potjie) with jam and cream.

After our time up at the lake, much of the snow had melted for our trip down but the weather was coming in again with even a few small snowflakes during our descent. So our early arrival at another delightful homestay in Kochkor really was welcome. It was also here in Kochkor that Fraser, Jill, Toby and Paul S rejoined us, after having had a sneak-preview of Bishkek as they had visas to sort out (and hotel suites to enjoy!).

Pastoralism really is a pretty important source of livelihood here in Kyrgyzstan, and we’ve driven past large herds of horses, sheep and cattle. Among many other things I’m sure, sheep wool is also used for felting – blankets, hats, carpets, linings for yurts. We had a demonstration of the felting technique. It was really interactive as the ‘artist’ explained and demonstrated the process. Once you’ve made your design (ours was the truck and a campsite setup), it gets rolled up in a reed mat, with warm water poured over it, and danced on. Literally. I got the feeling that the whole process does involve having fun and that the final product has been made with love and fun. We danced on this rolled up mat, and no man was allowed to escape that – some even got a kiss afterwards! Kochkor also provided the opportunity for a horse-ride – a successful first for Ann S J

Custom felt design

Next on the map was Diety Orgus – camping up the valley and crossing 5 rickety bridges in the process (if you don’t believe our pics, check out the picture of the truck crossing the bridge that flashes across the Odyssey website...we went there!).

Still pretty icy here, but great for the bar, and even environmentally friendly – beers chilled on snow. Though for me, it’s too cold for cold beer, I’ll stick with the mulled wine! In fancy dress. Just for a laugh. For the record: we did not choose our own outfits – we bought outfits for others from the markets in Turpan, Kashgar and some even from Bishkek!

A couple of peaks were summited during our time up there, and there was a bit of horse riding as well.  And a sheep made for a delicious spit-roast meal, which, after 7 hours of cooking, was almost served up before we were hit by hail! Still tasted great and mutton sandwiches the next day went down well too.

  

We also had the opportunity to meet with an Eagle hunter, who gave us a demonstration of how his golden eagle hunts. Unfortunately the white bunny didn’t have much of a chance, but incredible to see this bird up close, how sharp its beak and talons are, and how it is capable of ripping something apart – literally.

We certainly have had our fair share of dealing with the elements lately. The morning we left Diety Orgus Gorge, the weather was coming in again, with a hint of snow whilst we were taking down our tents. Needless to say, we left in a hurry. We’ve done snow, done hail, the next element to be thrown at us was wind. Getting late in the day and time for one more bushcamp on the way to Bishkek, we headed down a farm track, looking for trees as a bit of a wind break. But just to test us a little bit more, we managed to get bogged metres from our planned camping spot! Hard work by Simon, Paul O and Nigel H, in freezing temperatures, and we were out. A blessing in disguise as the family at the nearby homestead were kind enough to offer us the use of their kitchen, and offer the option to sleep in the living room for those who wished. So while the wind howled outside, and didn’t let up at all in the night, we at least had a warm sheltered place to eat our meal and thaw a little!

This comes to you from Bishkek, which is comparatively warmer, especially in the heated hotel, with a sunny windless day today J  Next stop Kazakhstan where we will be visiting a Nature Reserve, and then to Uzbekistan and the long awaited Silk Road cities of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva!